Working With An Existing Tile Backsplash

In many cases with countertop replacements, we are asked if the existing tile backsplash can be reused.  The simple answer is yes, but with a few qualifications.

Granite or engineered stones are primarily 1.25″ thick.  Laminate countertops, the kind we replace most, are 1.5″ thick.  Upon replacement, this will then leave a 1/4″ reveal between the bottom of the tile backsplash and the top of the new countertop.  Here are the best ways to handle the gap in order of preference.

1. If you have any of the grout leftover from the original tile installation, or if it is a simple color to match like white or almond, simply clean away the dirty caulked area and re-grout the gap at the bottom.  This will make the gap look intentional and professional and in most cases match the size of the grout lines elsewhere.
2. Purchase a tube of colored caulk to match your grout color and caulk the gap between the two materials.  It will be 1/4″ thick instead of 1/8″ as normal, but this difference is barely noticeable unless you are looking for it.
3. Purchase and install some form of trim to match the tile or countertops at a local tile store such as Mosaic Tile. (www.mosaictileco.com)
4. Ask Granite Source to measure, fabricate and install a 4″ granite backsplash and just install it over the tile.  Once it is caulked in, it will look very normal.
5. Hire a handyman to be on the job at the time of our installation to install 1/4″ plywood on top of the cabinets before we install our stone.  Please note that this option will leave a 1/4″ strip of unfinished material around the edges.
6. Shim up the countertops from below during installation.  This is the lest preferred option because in the long term the shims will inevitably shift exposing the stone to seam separation and breakage.

If you do decide to remove all of your tile, this will need to be done prior to final measurement as this often involves complete replacement of the drywall which will change our dimensions.

Please see your Account Manager or call the office at any time if you would like to discuss your options further.

Kitchen Sinks

A kitchen sink is not just a kitchen sink any more. While you will spend a lot of time enjoying the look of your new countertops, a large percentage of your actual time in the kitchen will be spent working around the sink and faucet. These selections are crucial to the functionality and eventual enjoyment of your new project and should be well thought out with as much information as possible. There are different materials to choose from, different configurations and a myriad of actual sizes. Finding the right one is not so much a science, but a matter of talking through how you use the space and what your sink normally looks like. Dishes drying? Large trays? Dinner from the last three nights? Peeled vegetables? Spotless and pristine? There is an answer for everyone and every situation. Last year at Granite Source alone we installed 456 different types of sinks. And each year brings more and more new styles and trends to consider. Don’t worry. We all manage to choose the right cereal in the store somehow. Or do we?
Materials
Silgranit – Defined as hard composite, these sinks are actually manufactured from a mix of materials of which up to 80% is granite and rest an acrylic resin. The sink itself has a textured feel that can complement stone beautifully if chosen wisely. Although most of these sinks come with an extended warranty, they are expensive and bulky, which dissuades many buyers. It also takes a keen eye to ensure a good match between the sink finish and countertop material. These are by far our least popular sinks. That does not mean, however, that they might not be perfect for your home. More information can be found at (www.blancoamerica.com).
Cast Iron – These sinks are enjoying a bit of a renaissance as people who want something different then stainless steel discover the benefits of this finish. It is virtually indestructible, available in dozens of colors and configurations, and is warranted very strongly. Cast iron, however, is immensely heavy, and does require additional charges for installation. Brackets will need to be attached to the side of your cabinets to support the weight as our standard in stone clips would rip out in moments. These sinks are available in both undermount and drop in varieties and should be considered for anyone looking to make an impact with their sink choice. More information can be found at (www.kohler.com).
Stainless Steel – This finish represents the vast majority of all sink installations due to several distince advantages. It is easy to install, inexpensive, extremely durable, and an easy match to the faucet and other accessories. Beware the truly inexpensive brands as they can rust after a few years, but generally any 18 gauge stainless sink will work. Additional gauges can be considered, but thinner begins to get dangerous, and thicker is generally a waste of money. Pay special attention to noise cancelling construction so that they are not loud in your home. We stock Kohler Sterling under-mounts in five varieties, and they are very inexpensive and reliable. More information can be found at (www.sterlingplumbing.com).
Depth
One of the most frequent things we hear is a request for a deep sink. This is the legacy of those horrific 4” deep drop in stainless steel sinks we all had with Formica tops for years. If you stacked two plates in the bottom, it was full. More, however, is not necessarily better. The sweet spot for most users is somewhere between 7 and 8 inches. With the thickness of the stone, this puts the total depth around 9”. Look under your existing countertop to the top of the cabinet. Measure down from there 9” and place a piece of tape on the side of the cabinet. Try bending over and hold your hands there for 60 seconds. We spend most of our time working at the bottom of a sink, and this depth may be too much for your back already. Find a measurement from that cabinet top that is comfortable to work at, and that is the depth you need. This may be less than you think.
Size
So you have chosen a material and a depth. Great. Now how wide can it be? Generally, you need to measure the inside of your sink cabinet, subtract 2” from this, and that is what size the overall sink can be. We need this inch of space on each side of the sink to install our clips and attach the bowl. Exceptions can be made for us to use the sink cabinet to support the bowl, but this should only be done on a case by case basis. In this situation, you could theoretically go up to the point where the bowl does not physically fit into the cabinet. Please remember to measure the inside of the cabinet, not the overall outside dimension. Again, however, bigger is not always better. Counter space is very important, and often an overly wide sink can look out of place if this is taken too far.
Configuration
The last piece of the puzzle is which shape your bowl should take. Generally, we recommend single bowls for people who use the dishwasher for almost everything, and double bowls for people that frequently rinse or wash their dishes by hand. If you rarely wash your own dishes, a double bowl will just give you two bowls to clean every night for the price of one. You also then end up with the disposal on one and not the other. Single bowls allow this user the most flexibility. In either case, you will need to decide on which shape fits your needs the best. When you do dishes this evening in your existing sink, try to imagine the different shapes and what would work best.
Faucet Placement
Keep in mind that the shape of your sink will determine which type of faucet you can purchase and where it will be located. On a standard rectangular sink, the faucet can be centered behind the bowl. On a ‘D’ shape sink, it will be pushed off to either the left or the right corner and will require a ‘single hole’ type faucet. Offset sinks, where one bowl is deeper front to back than the other, will also require this single hole configuration. With double bowl sinks, you also need to ensure that the faucet reaches both drains adequately. Bar sinks and island sinks tend to have the drain closer to the edge as smaller faucets are traditionally used in these areas.
Final Word
This should be a fun process. We have the basic tried and true versions on our website (www.granitesource.net/accessories.html ), but there are many more to choose from that we will happily order for you upon request. We have relationships with every manufacturer in America, and look forward to finding the perfect fit for you and your life. And this was just the sink. Faucets and soap dispensers are next!

You can reach me any time with questions.  nicholas@granitesource.net

Granite Countertop Sealers

One of the most frequent questions we receive is about sealing, both whether it is necessary and if so, with what frequency it should be completed. The simple answer is as follows:
‘If the stone is developing water spots during normal use, your tops need to be sealed. Sealing your stone is a simple process of spraying it on and wiping it off. It will need to be re-done when water spots start to re-develop.’
The more complicated answer depends on the exact type of countertop you have selected and what your subjective performance goals are for your particular usage. The vast majority of our installations are granite, and this type of formation, an igneous rock, literally translates to ‘born of fire’. This is an extremely violent process that millions of years later results in an enormous variety of densities and variations in absorbency. Each block removed from a mountain side will vary in sealing needs and tendencies, even though they have a similar finish applied.
All countertops should be considered absorbent, even our engineered quartz varieties like Zodiaq and Caeserstone. The goal is to provide a countertop that is dense enough to repel moisture inherently and then add a layer of protection and sealant that makes it even more durable for constant use. Some are better at this than others, but the majority of what is sold as polished, resined slabs in this country are up to the task and will perform admirably.
The addition of a new generation sealant, like the flurochemical sealers we sell at our shop, will actually bond with the surface of the stone and provide a long term layer of protection against both water and oil stains. These sealers are slightly more expensive, but should decrease the sealing frequency and end up costing less over time.
I would be remiss in any discussion of sealers to not discuss the fact that the majority of users never seal their countertops and do not experience staining. For those of you that have visited Italy, you are familiar with solid marble exterior stairways. These have been exposed to the elements for hundreds of years and have no stains or blemishes. The idea here is that anything that does stain the countertop will eventually disappears and is just a part of having a beautiful piece of nature in your home. As very few stones are susceptible to stains in the first place due to their natural density, this is a good answer for a lot of homeowners.
At the end of the day, this is a personal choice. If you would like to seal your countertops, it is inexpensive and simple to do. Please email me or call me directly if you have any questions and enjoy your kitchen.

Nicholas Draper
703 961 9557
nicholas@granitesource.net