Marble For Kitchen Countertops

Many of our clients like the patterns and warmth of marble, travertine, limestone and other similar materials, but are uncertain as to whether it would make a reliable surfacing option for their heavily used kitchen countertops.  The simple answer is yes, but it comes with a few caveats.

The enormous popularity of granite and engineered stone countertops today is primarily the result of two related developments.  First, the surface treatment that seals the stone and creates a flat and evenly polished surface was improved to the point of it becoming a maintenance free installation in almost all cases.  Secondly, the technology to quarry, produce and fabricate the slabs improved in parallel to the surface finishing and allowed the landed material pricing to drop dramatically as massive international stone companies began competing for market share.

Marbles have enjoyed the same economies in quarrying and fabrication, but the finishing remains unchanged from the previous century.  For the homeowner this means that depending on the material choice, they should expect the products to be porous, sensitive to citrus etching and very likely to show scratches, impact marks and other normal wear and use aging characteristics.

So does this mean that you should not use them?  Possibly.  If you are looking for a material that will require no maintenance and be trouble free in an environment of multiple users with varying degrees of inherent caution and sensitivity, this will most likely not be a great fit.  If, however, you are comfortable with a basic amount of upkeep and are normally careful with other surfaces in your home, there would be no reason to not consider these materials.  Most homes contain wood dining room tables and coffee tables that have similar use restrictions but still enjoy long lives.  Very few people would be willing to change out those wood tables for plastic or metal versions simply to decrease the possibility of a scratch, stain or other imperfection.  These are normal for a natural material and with stone and wood, continued cleaning and use will eventually create a natural ‘patina’ that will have a warmth and personality hard to find in other polished and safer alternatives.

Used in the correct location with the correct expectations, a nice piece of marble can transform a home or restaurant.

Almost all marbles are quarried in 3/4″ slabs, and a lot of them are quarried in 1 1/4″ slabs as well.  Pricing is similar, so this will be more of an availability and aesthetic question then a cost based process.  Slabs do tend to be smaller, so additional seams may be required if you have a large kitchen.

Edge detail selection is crucial on marble as is matching up the veining at seams and other breaks.  Take the time to get it right and work with a fabricator who understands the materials.  The tooling and seams need to be done with marble specific products in order to achieve the best results.

A Look at Soapstone for Surfacing

One countertop material often overlooked when designing
or remodeling a kitchen or bathroom is soapstone. While
soapstone is not for everyone or for every design, this natural stone
possesses several advantages that make it a viable competitor of more
traditional countertop materials, such as granite, laminates and solid
surface. Soapstone is chemically inert, resistant to heat and durable.
These qualities, combined with its beauty and ease of care, have made
it the countertop material of choice for many gourmet chefs and some
of the top kitchen designers in the world.

What Is Soapstone?
Soapstone, also known as steatite, is a quarried stone composed primarily of talc, silicate, chlorite and magnesium. Most soapstone deposits were formed from 300 to 400 million years ago, and they can be found throughout the world. The name soapstone is derived from the fact that the talc in the stone makes it soft to the touch, similar to that of a dry bar of soap. The talc content in architectural soapstone ranges from
50 to 75 percent, making it soft and smooth. However, the other minerals in the composition lend the stone its strength and durability.
Soapstone is a metamorphic rock that was formed by millions of years of fluctuating heat and pressure combined with the infusion of
mineral-rich water and other liquids. It has been quarried and used for thousands of years throughout the world. Major distribution centers
in the ancient world were known to have existed in what are now India and Iran. Today, the most productive soapstone quarries are located in the
United States, Brazil, Finland and India.
Several natural properties of  Soapstone make it suitable for use as a countertop surface. Besides being relatively easy to quarry and  Fabricate, it is resistant to heat and chemical reactions. In fact, soapstone is often used for casting metals,such as lead, pewter and silver. It has also been used traditionally for cooking pots and tobacco pipes. Soapstone is nonporous, which makes it stain-resistant and limits the ability of microbes to penetrate the surface.
Soapstone is a very attractive stone, but it is limited in color. It is light gray in color, but it can have either a green or blue tint. It has considerable veining, which provides for a wide variety of grains or patterns. Soapstone naturally darkens with age and use, even though substances cannot penetrate beyond the surface.  This natural darkening occurs at different rates bacross a slab, so for aesthetic purposes, mineral oil or wax is applied to make the darkening process spread evenly throughout the surface.

Although soapstone is not as strong as some other countertop surfaces, it can easily last a lifetime with the proper care. The edges may soften, and scratches or nicks may develop with use, but most of these can be removed with only a light sanding.

Soapstone Applications

Soapstone has a wide range of practical applications in the modern home. It is primarily found in the kitchen, which coincides with its historical uses as cookware and stone cooking slabs. The ability of soapstone to resist heat has continued to make the material popular in both gourmet and working kitchens as a countertop surface. Fabricators like working with soapstone because of the ease in which it can be cut, while consumers enjoy soapstone for its aesthetic value and durability. Soapstone countertops not only resist heat damage, but their appearance and integrity is upheld through their resistance to both acidic and alkaline chemical etching. It naturally has a matte or honed finish so end users do not have to worry about fingerprints or drip marks showing. And, because soapstone is nonporous, it is weatherproof, which makes it popular as a countertop surface for outdoor kitchens as well.
Soapstone is not only used in kitchens as a countertop surface, but it is also used as a material for upscale kitchen sinks. This use extends to the bathroom, where soapstone can be used for vanities and as tub surrounds. Soapstone may also be set vertically or tiled onto shower walls. Some architects have also found that soapstone tiles work well for bathroom flooring because of their water resistance and high traction. Because it has a low heat conductivity, soapstone is not as cold in the winter as many other types of tile flooring.
Other popular uses of soapstone in the home include fireplace and wood-burning stove surrounds. When used as a firebrick, it can absorb great amounts of heat, which it will softly radiate for several hours.
One final use of soapstone in homes is as any sort of decorative basin. Soapstone is commonly used for indoor or outdoor planters, birdbaths and garden fountains.
Besides its use in homes, soapstone also has several commercial applications. Soapstone has been used for decades in laboratory countertops and tabletops because of its chemical etching resistance. Its high durability makes it useful wherever a hard surface is required.

Soapstone Fabrication
Soapstone is a less complex material to work with for fabricators. Because the rock is softer than other natural stone surfacing materials, fabrication is faster, takes less labor and does not require the same high-powered cutting tools used for harder materials such as granite or quartz. Fabricators will find that woodworking tools are sufficient to handle working with this material.
Soapstone fabrication involves no unique safety issues, although general fabrication safety certainly applies when working with the material. As long as general safety protocols are followed, the leading danger in soapstone fabrication involves maintaining the integrity of the slab. Because soapstone is so easy to cut and polish, it is also easy to do so too quickly. Many fabricators moving too fast have taken off much more material than originally intended.

Pricing and Availability of Soapstone
Soapstone is generally quarried in slabs or blocks measuring 30 by 72 in., so if a job calls for a length greater than 72 in., more than one slab is required. However, when installed properly, the seams between two slabs can be very inconspicuous. The only problem may be matching up the grain because the veining can vary even between slabs cut from the same block.
The standard thickness for soapstone countertops is 3 cm (about 1-1/4 in.) Because soapstone is very dense, cutting it any thicker makes for a heavy slab that is difficult to work with and install.
The pricing of soapstone varies by quality, locale, how it is finished and how it is marketed. It is generally comparable to other natural stone surfacing. A standard 3-cm slab may be retailed from $40 to more than $100 per sq. ft.
Soapstone Care
Caring for soapstone requires less effort than many other countertop surfaces, natural or synthetic. At a minimum, all that is required is standard cleaning with any common household cleaners. Soapstone does not have to be sealed or conditioned, and because it is chemically inert, acidic or alkaline cleaners can be used. However, for best results, it is recommended to use mild cleansers that are not too abrasive.
Some companies selling soapstone recommend the application of stone sealer to protect the countertop surface, but many believe that it is not necessary. However, it is a good idea to apply a light coat of mineral oil or specialty soapstone enhancing product shortly after installation. Soapstone darkens as it ages, and the wax/oil keeps the natural darkening evenly spread throughout the surface. It will give the soapstone a darker charcoal appearance, and it will also bring out the detail in the veining.

Oiling/waxing is generally recommended on a weekly basis for the first three months, but then it can be reduced to once per month. After one to two years, most people find that they no longer have to oil/wax soapstone at all. However, it does help to remove light scratches. Deeper scratches can be removed by professionals through sanding lightly with an 80-grit sanding sponge.

Soapstone is a beautiful natural stone that can enhance any kitchen or bathroom.  It can be used equally well with ultra-modern or rustic décor. It has a warm finish, and the properties of the stone make it ideal for working kitchens and bathrooms. With its pleasing matte finish, stain resistance and natural sanitary qualities, those choosing this material for a project can be assured the material will age with warmth and character.

 

Article Copied From ‘Countertops & Architectural Surfaces Magazine’ Volume 4 – Issue 4′

http://www.isfanow.org/

 

Countertop Rodding

Rodding Countertops

For those of you fortunate enough to have avoided this issue on your jobsites, rodding is a process where a small slit is routed out of the stone countertop underneath the weakest portions, and a rectangular strip of metal is inserted and sealed in place with a polyester resin.  The concept is that the metal strip adds rigidity to the stone and prevents the most stress prone areas such as sink and cooktop cutouts from failing.

So when is rodding necessary? And is your countertop not fabricated to the highest standards if it is not rodded?  The answer is complicated and must take into account that in the process of rodding, we are removing some of the thickness and strength of the original material.  The final decision will be based on a combination of our experience with your particular material and the particular layout of your project.

Our experience with the tens of thousands of rods we have installed is the following.  Rodding saves us money in the long term and is not considered an expense but rather a normal part of quality fabrication.  Rodding does decrease the likelihood of sudden and catastrophic failures during the transport of and installation of stone countertops.  Rodding will not stop a stone from cracking if enough pressure is applied such as a cleaning crew standing on the cooktop bridge areas.  It will, however, stop it from separating and allow us to effect a more efficient repair if required.  Rodding is not useful in the more dense materials with less movement.  Overall rodding is here to stay and we encourage your feedback and personal experiences to help us continue to improve the process.

15 Year Warranty On Granite

We are proud to partner with a company based out of Atlanta to offer an optional 15 year warranty on most granite colors.  We can even add this to your existing installation.  Please contact our office at 703 961 9557 if you would like to add this to your order.  Pricing is based on the square footage and a slight surcharge may apply to install it in the field.

http://www.granitelife.com/

Here is some text from their website:

Granite Life was formed to give customers a safe; water based option for protecting their counter tops and receive a 15 year warranty. While competing products in the market place claim superior protecting ability they are extremely hazardous to the environment and homeowner; some are even classified as pesticides with the Federal Government.

Granite Life was developed with the environment in mind; a non-polluting process with no noxious chemicals and no petrochemical solvents to be released to air or water. Granite Life is constructed with unique water based technology that penetrates the granite surface. It works at a molecular level below the surface of the granite causing the stone’s molecules to repel food & beverage stains. Granite Life Protectant creates a natural, safe barrier that protects your countertop from Food & Beverage Staining.

Granite Life partners with its Provider network and has created a unique business structure. The Providers have been certified, trained, and have worked with the product for multiple years; they can attest to its superior anti-staining properties.

 

 

Order Checklist

While the number of things to select can seem overwhelming, they are all important and you should not feel rushed into selecting something you have not had time to research.  Here is a basic list of things we will ask you about so that you can consider as many of them as possible up front.  Keep in mind that we do this for a living, and will be able to help guide you on all of these when the time comes with as much or as little information as you need.

1. Sink
2. Faucet
3. Overhang
4. Edges
5. Material
6. Color
7. Backsplash
8. Removal
9. Plumbing
10. Sealer
11. Dishwasher Bracket

Our measurers are also very good at discussing these things with you during your appointment if you need additional information.

Once we have all of this information and final measurement has been completed, we will begin working on your custom countertops right away and installation normally occurs in less then a week.

Dishwasher Brackets

Dishwashers will tip forward when opened if not attached to the opening securely.  This attachment is important as it stops the machine from being jostled or vibrating unnecessarily during normal operation.  The attachment point should be rigid but also allow for the machine to be easily removed in case of maintenance or replacement.

Prior to the explosion of granite and engineered stone countertops, all dishwashers were attached by screwing top mounted brackets up and into the laminate or Corian countertop.  This was simple, and worked well for almost all machines.  With granite or engineered stone, however, you are unable to screw up into the stone.  Although technically possible, it is a very bad idea for the following reasons.

1. It will vibrate the stone and cause seams to separate, sinks and faucets to loosen and eventually fail completely.
2. The holes in the stone will weaken the countertop at an area that is already without support.
3. It makes it difficult for the average homeowner to switch dishwashers down the line and replace the fittings.

This is why most modern dishwashers come with side clips or attachment points so that the machine can be screwed to the cabinetry thus allowing the vibrations to be absorbed by the wood and not the stone.

If your dishwasher does not have these clips or holes, please let your account manager know and we will provide a dishwasher bracket that is mounted to the cabinetry at the top of the opening.  This will achieve the same goal without modification of the dishwasher itself.

Which material makes the best countertop?

In today’s market, there are four basic material choices for kitchen countertops.  Laminate, Solid Surface, Hard Surfaces and Recycled.  Each one has merits depending upon the particular application.

Laminate, also commonly referred to as Formica, is plywood with a thin compressed wood and plastic veneer.  Most of us have lived in a home with these countertops, and for the price, they perform very well.  Average materials installed will be under one thousand dollars and can be expected to last up to fifteen years if well maintained.  Common complaints are that the seams separate and start to peel up and that the edge lamination comes unglued over time.  All in all, however, these products offer tremendous value.  In a resale situation, however, laminate tops will be considered a liability to homebuyers who are comparison shopping similar units.

Solid Surface, also commonly referred to as Corian, is plastics and particulates that have been melted together to form a very durable countertop that can look ‘seamless’ once the product is installed and the pieces melted together.  There is a huge selection of colors and finishes, and installation is relatively painless and mess free.  The biggest problem with these countertops today is that they are the same price as hard surface options, and simply do not hold up as well or increase the home value.  Not necessarily a liability on the re-sale market if neutral in color and in good condition, you will still not see it listed in the property description as a benefit.

Hard Surfaces make up the vast majority of new installations in the Metro DC market today, and are primarily split between granite and engineered stone.  Granite is removed from the ground and polished with no additives or manufacturing.  Engineered stones such as Silestone, Caeserstone, Zodiaq and Cambria are mostly granite dust mixed with additives and particulates to create the particular color and look that the manufacturer was trying to achieve.  There is a lot of hysteria about granite staining and having to be sealed, but this is mostly limited to a few of the less dense varietals, and will not impact the average buyer in a meaningful way.  The choice between the two should really be about color and the environment in which you are installing the stone, and the way each will complement the overall kitchen or space design.  Traditionally we advise people that there is a clear difference between natural materials and engineered, and that this should be the basis of their search.  Natural materials tend to blend in better and more easily become a long term part of your home, whereas the engineered materials need to be a part of a look that you are trying to achieve as they will not have the long term appeal of something with natural variation.  In either case, they both make excellent choices for kitchens, bathrooms and any other high traffic area of your home.

Recycled materials are the least popular choice currently due to their prohibitive cost and dubious ecological value, but smart manufacturers are slowly beginning to offer more intelligent products that we will be excited to bring to market.  The key here is to do your homework and not get caught up on the sales pitch.  The Prius for example is a great car, but by the time it is manufactured with those batteries, it is said to do more damage to the environment then a Land Rover.  We still need the Prius to advance the technology, but the timing for your purchase is up to the individual buyer.  We currently offer several recycled paper and glass countertop options that can be a beautiful addition to a more modern kitchen, with many more options on the way such as bamboo, grass, recycled plastic and wood.  Brand names to research would be Frita Glass, Paperstone and Richlite.

Whichever material you choose, there are three basic things to consider.  Initial cost, residual value and personal enjoyment.  If you can hit all three of these in the same material, your investment will pay dividends for you in the long term.  And do not wait until you put your home on the market to make the change, you deserve to enjoy your new countertops yourselves for a few years first!

How Much Overhang Can My Countertop Have?

There are many places where extra overhang can add to the form and function of your countertop.  Bar seating areas, peninsulas, pass through shelves and raised surfaces.  We are frequently asked how much overhang a particular material is able to sustain safely.

The answer lies in a combination of physics and liability.

First a couple of notes:

1. Your countertop cannot be glued down.  Glue dries over time and will eventually separate.  Probably at a very inopportune moment of stress on the material which will result in catastrophic failure causing damage to the environment or personal injury.
2. Mechanical fasteners are not useful in this application because they will become worn over time with constant friction and bumping, resulting in a similar failure.
3. The only way to properly support overhang is to support it.

Physics: Gravity will pull anything down that extends farther then the portion that is supported.  In other words, if you have a 12″ bar cabinet and put a 12″ overhang on it, the top will fall off.  Once you get south of this 50/50 rule, it is a matter of comfort.  I recommend to people that they take a coffee table book and play with percentages by seeing how much downward pressure is required on the overhang portion to lift up the supported area.  If is too easy with a coffee table book, it is dangerous with granite.  For those that like to organize life into tidy formulas, we generally look at anything with an overhang of more then 50% of the supported area as questionable.  So if you have 12″ supported on that bar cabinet, the most you would want to consider having as unsupported overhang would be 6″.  Not an absolute rule, but hopefully a useful guide.

Liability: Our friend Mr. Murphy tells us to beware of complacency, and in this case where the potential is a piece of heavy stone falling from 42″ or more, this advice takes on special meaning.  The reality is that stone can fracture and fail.  It is EXTREMELY unlikely, but it is possible.  So in this situation, we always prefer more support over less.  You can find some innovative hidden support options on our website at http://www.granitesource.net/accessories.html.  Almost any building supply company or big box store will also have some great options with corbels to stain or paint.  If you are a homeowner reading this, you are free to push the boundaries as far as you dare.  If you are a contractor or builder, we recommend building in support and crossing it off the worry list.

Please note that steel rods added to the stone will not protect against this risk of failure.  They will hold the stone together for a time after it fractures, but the fracture itself will then become the issue for the homeowner and daily use.  And eventually, the glue around the steel rod will come loose as well completing the failure.

Working With An Existing Tile Backsplash

In many cases with countertop replacements, we are asked if the existing tile backsplash can be reused.  The simple answer is yes, but with a few qualifications.

Granite or engineered stones are primarily 1.25″ thick.  Laminate countertops, the kind we replace most, are 1.5″ thick.  Upon replacement, this will then leave a 1/4″ reveal between the bottom of the tile backsplash and the top of the new countertop.  Here are the best ways to handle the gap in order of preference.

1. If you have any of the grout leftover from the original tile installation, or if it is a simple color to match like white or almond, simply clean away the dirty caulked area and re-grout the gap at the bottom.  This will make the gap look intentional and professional and in most cases match the size of the grout lines elsewhere.
2. Purchase a tube of colored caulk to match your grout color and caulk the gap between the two materials.  It will be 1/4″ thick instead of 1/8″ as normal, but this difference is barely noticeable unless you are looking for it.
3. Purchase and install some form of trim to match the tile or countertops at a local tile store such as Mosaic Tile. (www.mosaictileco.com)
4. Ask Granite Source to measure, fabricate and install a 4″ granite backsplash and just install it over the tile.  Once it is caulked in, it will look very normal.
5. Hire a handyman to be on the job at the time of our installation to install 1/4″ plywood on top of the cabinets before we install our stone.  Please note that this option will leave a 1/4″ strip of unfinished material around the edges.
6. Shim up the countertops from below during installation.  This is the lest preferred option because in the long term the shims will inevitably shift exposing the stone to seam separation and breakage.

If you do decide to remove all of your tile, this will need to be done prior to final measurement as this often involves complete replacement of the drywall which will change our dimensions.

Please see your Account Manager or call the office at any time if you would like to discuss your options further.

Kitchen Sinks

A kitchen sink is not just a kitchen sink any more. While you will spend a lot of time enjoying the look of your new countertops, a large percentage of your actual time in the kitchen will be spent working around the sink and faucet. These selections are crucial to the functionality and eventual enjoyment of your new project and should be well thought out with as much information as possible. There are different materials to choose from, different configurations and a myriad of actual sizes. Finding the right one is not so much a science, but a matter of talking through how you use the space and what your sink normally looks like. Dishes drying? Large trays? Dinner from the last three nights? Peeled vegetables? Spotless and pristine? There is an answer for everyone and every situation. Last year at Granite Source alone we installed 456 different types of sinks. And each year brings more and more new styles and trends to consider. Don’t worry. We all manage to choose the right cereal in the store somehow. Or do we?
Materials
Silgranit – Defined as hard composite, these sinks are actually manufactured from a mix of materials of which up to 80% is granite and rest an acrylic resin. The sink itself has a textured feel that can complement stone beautifully if chosen wisely. Although most of these sinks come with an extended warranty, they are expensive and bulky, which dissuades many buyers. It also takes a keen eye to ensure a good match between the sink finish and countertop material. These are by far our least popular sinks. That does not mean, however, that they might not be perfect for your home. More information can be found at (www.blancoamerica.com).
Cast Iron – These sinks are enjoying a bit of a renaissance as people who want something different then stainless steel discover the benefits of this finish. It is virtually indestructible, available in dozens of colors and configurations, and is warranted very strongly. Cast iron, however, is immensely heavy, and does require additional charges for installation. Brackets will need to be attached to the side of your cabinets to support the weight as our standard in stone clips would rip out in moments. These sinks are available in both undermount and drop in varieties and should be considered for anyone looking to make an impact with their sink choice. More information can be found at (www.kohler.com).
Stainless Steel – This finish represents the vast majority of all sink installations due to several distince advantages. It is easy to install, inexpensive, extremely durable, and an easy match to the faucet and other accessories. Beware the truly inexpensive brands as they can rust after a few years, but generally any 18 gauge stainless sink will work. Additional gauges can be considered, but thinner begins to get dangerous, and thicker is generally a waste of money. Pay special attention to noise cancelling construction so that they are not loud in your home. We stock Kohler Sterling under-mounts in five varieties, and they are very inexpensive and reliable. More information can be found at (www.sterlingplumbing.com).
Depth
One of the most frequent things we hear is a request for a deep sink. This is the legacy of those horrific 4” deep drop in stainless steel sinks we all had with Formica tops for years. If you stacked two plates in the bottom, it was full. More, however, is not necessarily better. The sweet spot for most users is somewhere between 7 and 8 inches. With the thickness of the stone, this puts the total depth around 9”. Look under your existing countertop to the top of the cabinet. Measure down from there 9” and place a piece of tape on the side of the cabinet. Try bending over and hold your hands there for 60 seconds. We spend most of our time working at the bottom of a sink, and this depth may be too much for your back already. Find a measurement from that cabinet top that is comfortable to work at, and that is the depth you need. This may be less than you think.
Size
So you have chosen a material and a depth. Great. Now how wide can it be? Generally, you need to measure the inside of your sink cabinet, subtract 2” from this, and that is what size the overall sink can be. We need this inch of space on each side of the sink to install our clips and attach the bowl. Exceptions can be made for us to use the sink cabinet to support the bowl, but this should only be done on a case by case basis. In this situation, you could theoretically go up to the point where the bowl does not physically fit into the cabinet. Please remember to measure the inside of the cabinet, not the overall outside dimension. Again, however, bigger is not always better. Counter space is very important, and often an overly wide sink can look out of place if this is taken too far.
Configuration
The last piece of the puzzle is which shape your bowl should take. Generally, we recommend single bowls for people who use the dishwasher for almost everything, and double bowls for people that frequently rinse or wash their dishes by hand. If you rarely wash your own dishes, a double bowl will just give you two bowls to clean every night for the price of one. You also then end up with the disposal on one and not the other. Single bowls allow this user the most flexibility. In either case, you will need to decide on which shape fits your needs the best. When you do dishes this evening in your existing sink, try to imagine the different shapes and what would work best.
Faucet Placement
Keep in mind that the shape of your sink will determine which type of faucet you can purchase and where it will be located. On a standard rectangular sink, the faucet can be centered behind the bowl. On a ‘D’ shape sink, it will be pushed off to either the left or the right corner and will require a ‘single hole’ type faucet. Offset sinks, where one bowl is deeper front to back than the other, will also require this single hole configuration. With double bowl sinks, you also need to ensure that the faucet reaches both drains adequately. Bar sinks and island sinks tend to have the drain closer to the edge as smaller faucets are traditionally used in these areas.
Final Word
This should be a fun process. We have the basic tried and true versions on our website (www.granitesource.net/accessories.html ), but there are many more to choose from that we will happily order for you upon request. We have relationships with every manufacturer in America, and look forward to finding the perfect fit for you and your life. And this was just the sink. Faucets and soap dispensers are next!

You can reach me any time with questions.  nicholas@granitesource.net